The project investigates the phenomenon of Sperrmüll—items discarded as unnecessary but not yet gone. In the German waste management system, this term refers to large, bulky trash: furniture, mattresses, and wardrobes that are placed by the roadside for separate collection. These objects have lost their function but retain their form and the traces of human presence. A jacket becomes such a mattress. It holds the shape of a body and the impressions of other clothing. «Ulcers"—indentations in lapels, buttons, and pockets—are read as an archive of presence, a material residue of contact. The project continues the DNA of Maison Margiela through deconstruction and the exposure of the underside: what is usually concealed becomes the main visual element.
CONNECT TO THE MAIN PROJECT
The «Fashion. Free Format» wearer was selected (3rd–4th Year). The jacket serves as an extension of the main collection idea, which focuses on bodily memory and discarded objects. This wearer requires significant production refinement: pattern drafting, shaping technology, and material selection.
VISUAL SOLUTION
· Silhouette: a streamlined form created by gathering and securing the fabric with tape—a technique referencing packaged Sperrmüll objects. · Materials: mattress ticking and foam (the mattress’s inner structure brought to the exterior), natural leather (a contrast in textures, referencing upholstery). · Technique: «pressure sores”—imprints of lapels, buttons, and pockets integrated into the fabric surface through pressing and deep appliqué. · Color: unbleached natural tones, gray, signs of wear; the tape serves as an accent element.
TECHNOLOGY MAP
3D MODEL: TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION
CIRCULATION AND ECONOMICS
FURTHER REALIZATION
The project can be realized under three scenarios: · HSE Art and Design School grant — funding for the production phase; · student self-funding — independent creation of a prototype or run; · external client (B2B) — adapting the project to the needs of a brand, company, or publisher. It is possible to sell in the School’s concept store, participate in exhibitions, and special projects. If commercialized, the author receives royalties.
CONCLUSION
«SPERRMÜLL» is a studio project that has moved into production. It merges the concept of bodily memory with the aesthetics of Maison Margiela and tangible materials—mattress ticking, foam, and leather. The jacket captures Sperrmüll as a moment of transition: a utilitarian object is transformed into a memorial artifact, preserving the imprint of presence even after the person is gone.
